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In an attempt to make things easier and remind you that we are also a roofer, for customers Rapid Rodent Removal has made a table of contents with all of our information our information about rats , mouse , squirrels and Roofing (articles & blog) stemming from the universe 25 experiment an Animal in the attic, to all about Raccoon Poop, Pest Control to Rodent Removal to Roof repair to things like How to get insurance to pay for roof replacement ?, check back periodically and see what new things you find

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Signs of a mouse infestation

Mouse Infestation

Mice are notorious for invading homes and causing a range of problems. If you suspect a mouse infestation, it's crucial to take action immediately. In this comprehensive guide, we will discuss how to identify the signs of a mouse infestation, the various types of mice you may encounter, and the most effective methods for managing and preventing infestations.

Table of Contents

  • Signs of a Mouse Infestation

  • Types of Mice Commonly Found in Homes

  • Effective Mouse Control Strategies

  • Preventing Future Mouse Infestations



Signs of a Mouse Infestation

Being able to identify the signs of a mouse infestation is the first step in addressing the problem. Here are some common indicators that mice have taken up residence in your home:

Droppings

Mouse droppings are small, dark, and pellet-shaped. You may find them in kitchen cabinets, pantries, or near food sources. Read more below

Gnaw Marks

Mice have sharp teeth and will gnaw on various materials, such as wires, furniture, and food packaging. Look for signs of chewing or small holes. Read more below

Nesting Materials

Mice create nests using soft materials like shredded paper, fabric, or insulation. If you find these materials scattered or tucked away in hidden areas, it could indicate a mouse infestation. Read more below

Tracks and Runways

Mice tend to follow the same paths when traveling. Look for tiny footprints or greasy marks along walls, baseboards, or other surfaces. Read more below

Noises

Listen for scratching, squeaking, or scurrying sounds, especially at night when mice are most active. Read more below

Types of Mice Commonly Found in Homes

There are several types of mice that can invade your home, including:

House Mouse

The house mouse is the most common species found in homes. They are small, with a gray or brownish coat and a pointed snout.

Deer Mouse

Deer mice have a bi-colored coat, with a white underside and a brown or gray back. They are carriers of the dangerous hantavirus, making them a significant health concern.

White-Footed Mouse

White-footed mice are similar in appearance to deer mice, but they have a slightly larger body size. They can also carry hantavirus.

Effective Mouse Control Strategies

To manage a mouse infestation, you'll need to employ a combination of strategies, including:

Sanitation

Keep your home clean and clutter-free, ensuring food is stored in sealed containers and garbage is disposed of regularly.

Trapping

There are various types of mouse traps available, such as snap traps, glue traps, and live-catch traps. Place traps near signs of mouse activity for the best results.

Exclusion

Seal any gaps or cracks in your home's exterior to prevent mice from entering. Pay special attention to areas around pipes, vents, and foundations.


Preventing Future Mouse Infestations


If you suspect a MOUSE infestation in your home, it's crucial to take action quickly to minimize the potential damage and health risks. We will expound on this as the article continues but its nice to keep in mind the sound you hear doesnt means it rats, we have a whole section dedicated to Animal Poop Identification.

What does rat poop look like ?

What does mouse poop look like ?

What does squirrel poop look like ?

What does raccoon poop look like ?

RATS IN YOUR HOME ? HOW TO RECOGNIZE A RODENT INFESTATION !


Its impossible without some magic rodent control glasses to tell you how many rodents are living in your attic or walls, our general rule of thumb is if you have rodent activity in most of your attic we approach it as an infestation. There are many indicators of rodent activity we look for when we perform property inspections, below are some of the more common we see. If you see these throughout your attic, where your likely to have a rat infestation. These same signs can be applied to crawl spaces as well.  We also recommend you read about the health risk of living with rodents, so you understand what type of rodent removal situation your dealing with.

SIGNS OF A MOUSE

Droppings - Usually, the first clue of a serious rodent problem is their droppings on the kitchen counter, in kitchen drawers and cabinets, or in the pantry. Look for mouse droppings in utility closets, attics, garages and basements. Mouse droppings are smooth with pointed ends, and are 1/8-inch to ¼-inch long. Rat droppings are pellet-shaped, blunt at both ends, about the size of an olive pit, and shiny black. They soon fade to gray-white. Droppings are randomly scattered, but normally close to rodent runways, feeding areas, or near shelter. click here to read our blog to help you identify rodent feces

Tracks - Rodent tracks can be observed in mud, dust or bare dirt. Often, rodent tails also leave a mark. In the house, mouse tracks can be seen on dusty surfaces. You can also check for mouse tracks by dusting suspected areas with a light coating of unscented talcum powder or chalk dust. Wait a day and then shine a flashlight across the area. If there are small tracks in the powder, mice have been there.

Gnawing - Rats must chew continuously to wear down their incisor teeth. Look for holes in walls or ceilings, and trails in crawl spaces, behind or under cupboards, counters, bathtubs, shower stalls, or near hot water heaters or furnaces.

Burrows - Burrows can be found along ditches, walls, or fences, and under buildings, rubbish, low vegetation, woodpiles or concrete slabs.
Runways - Rats follow the same routes as they make their rounds foraging for food each night. In doing so, they leave 2-inch wide runways in the dirt or grass, usually next to buildings or fences.

Grease marks - Greasy rub marks are caused by a rat's oily fur repeatedly coming in contact with walls or entrance holes

Urine stains - Urine stains are more easily observable under a black light.

Nests - Mouse nests can be found in utility closets, attics, garages, and basements. They are usually made of cloth or shredded paper, lined with finely shredded material. 

Partially eaten food - Mice leave behind partially eaten food. While rats eat most of the food they find, even they leave telltale signs, like shells or other finding.

Live or dead rodents - People usually see mice only when they have been sitting stock still, such as when reading or watching television. Rats are nocturnal, but in areas having large rat populations some low ranked rats will forage during the day, because they have been denied access to food at night. If you see rats during the day, it is a sign of a substantial infestation.

Sounds - While you may not be able to see them, you can probably hear rodents moving after dark. If your pet paws at a wall or cabinet it may be trying to get at a lurking rodent.

Odors - Often you can smell rodent urine or their musky odor, especially in a poorly ventilated room

Just keep in mind, all of these signs may appear in the same areas, or they may be found in separate areas, but finding them in the same or separate areas does not lesson the underlying problem plaguing your house. Rodents breed quickly, and population control is a must in reestablishing rodent control on your property.

THE MOST EFFECTIVE RODENT CONTROL TO PREVENT A RODENT INFESTATION

To effectively prevent rodent infestations, maintain a clean and clutter-free environment in your home or business. Store food in tightly sealed containers, empty trash bins regularly, and keep attics dry and organized. Moreover, block any gaps or openings on the building's exterior with steel mesh or caulk to deter rodents from entering.

Periodically examine your home or business for indicators of rodent presence, including droppings, damaged wires and wood, or gnawed holes in walls and floors. If you detect any of these signs, take swift action. While traps and baits may help capture or kill individual rodents, the most effective approach to eradicating a rodent infestation is through an integrated pest management program. This strategy combines various control methods, such as exclusion, trapping, sanitation, and chemical treatments, to achieve optimal results.
A thorough rodent control strategy involves appropriate sanitation, proper roofing/exclusion measures, and the use of traps or poison baits when needed. Good sanitation practices entail consistently removing food sources and nesting materials in and around your home, as well as sealing potential rodent entry points. Exclusion methods involve blocking all possible access routes for rodents, including cracks in walls, holes in foundations, and gaps around windows and doors. Lastly, only resort to trapping or using poison baits if it's essential to decrease the rodent population.

How to Catch Mouse / Rat

How to set a Mouse Trap

1. IDENTIFY THE TYPE OF RAT PLAUGING YOUR HOME. 

Did you know that there are more than 3 dozen types of rats? Tat vary in size, weight, nose, requiring different types of traps. For example, most snap and glue traps are designed to catch only the smallest rats and mice, so they won’t do any good if you’re dealing with a larger rodent, such as a roof rat or a norway rat.

2. RATS EAT WHAT YOU EAT.

Your choice of bait depends on the rat. Different subspecies of rats prefer vastly different types of food—and not all rats will eat cheese! You may have to try a variety of baits in order to find what works for you. Whatever bait you select, be sure it’s long-lasting. Chocolate, Peanut Butter , candy, and meat typically work the best.

3. Strategically trap Them.

Rapid Rodent Removal almost exclusively uses Ol School wooden Snap Traps by Victor. Not because were sponsored, one can dream right, but because they are simply the best. Rats are surprisingly smart. They’re not simply going to walk up to a trap that you drop in the middle of a room or yard. You have to place your trap strategically in an area they will travel through. This is another reason to identify the subspecies of rat you’re dealing with, because some like to travel near fence lines and other borders, and others prefer brush and tall grass. 

4. patience Wins the race.

Recognize that regardless of your rat-trapping method, it will take a little time to eradicate the problem. Be patient. Rats are intelligent and highly suspicious, so trapping takes time. Refill your bait and reset your traps as needed, be extremely patient when trapping around the Rat holes in yard.

Rat, Mouse and Rodent Trapping Tips


Place Rat Traps in the Right Places

Rats instinctively use walls and fences as guides. Therefore, they are unlikely to roam into the center of a room or yard. As such, traps are usually most effective when placed along a wall and in a low-light setting. Rat traps are most effective when hidden along paths where rats are most likely to travel.

To increase your odds of catching the critters, place traps inside closets, as well as under any furniture — like sofas, chairs or even cabinets — sitting along the walls. A clever way to lure rats into traps is to cut a hole on each side of a shoebox and place it along a suspected rat path with a baited trap inside. The box piques the rats curiosity on what’s inside — and once they go in, they won’t come back out.

Teach Rats to Trust Traps

Even though rats have tiny heads, they are not as naïve as people often assume. A rat will be suspicious of new objects in its environment. This applies to rat traps, which could fail to lure prey if placed cold turkey out in the open.

When an infestation persists, one of the more effective methods of elimination involves getting rats accustomed to traps before setting them.  To introduce a trap, place it in an active area but don’t set it. Allow rats to feed off this “safe” trap for a day or two. Once the critters have accepted this object as part of their regular turf, bait the trap again, but set it up to snap the next rat that crosses its path.

Poison-Free Bait

Just because a trap hasn’t snapped doesn’t mean it hasn’t had a visitor. It just means the rat in question was sly enough to pry away the bait without getting caught. If the snap trap didn’t do the trick the first time, simply try it again. There’s really no reason to add slow-working chemicals into the process considering how traps are designed to kill on contact.

Mixing poison with edible bait can cause numerous problems. For example, if a rat gets away with the bait and drags it across the floor, that poison could potentially spread through your flooring. This can be hazardous to any bare feet that cross over the area, especially if you have pets or children in the house.

Furthermore, poisoned bait increases the odds of a rat meeting its slow death in another part of the house. In that case, you could have difficulty locating its stinky, rotting corpse.

For the best chances of catching a rat in the trap, keep the bait small and centered on the trap. If you bait a trap with a dangling piece of shrimp, for instance, a rat could nab it by the tip, set off the trap harmlessly and feast on its treat elsewhere.

The house mouse averages 2.5 to 4 inches in length, with an additional length of equal measure for its tail. By contrast, the brown rat, also known as the Norway Rat, has a body that typically measures between 7 to 10 inches in length, with an additional 6 to 8 inches for its tail. With all things considered, rat traps need to be much larger than mouse traps. The trouble is, a lot of homeowners barely know the difference between rats and mice, let alone how to determine whether an infestation involves one or the other.

Before you can pick the best trap for the situation, it’s crucial to determine whether you’re dealing with a rat or mouse. For starters, the paw prints of a brown rat are typically around 20mm in width, whereas mice paw prints are generally under 10mm wide. Likewise, rat droppings are about the size of pumpkin seeds, and mice droppings are more the size of sunflower kernels. Additionally, mice tend to nest inside homes around the clock, whereas rats are often active indoors and out.

Place Traps Properly Alongside Walls

There are two clever reason why rats travel alongside walls: First, they use their whiskers to sense objects in front of them in the dark. By keeping one set of whiskers touching a wall, they can tell if they are still on the right path. Secondly, traveling along a wall provides protection – they only have to watch for trouble on the open-air side of their path. Therefore, a trap is most effective when it is placed against a wall at a 90-degree angle, with the trigger side placed closest to the wall.

If you must place a trap parallel to a wall, place it toe-to-toe with another trap facing the opposite direction. This will make it easier to catch a rat coming from either direction. Otherwise, keep your traps spaced at least 15 feet apart from one another.

In an attempt to remind customers that Rapid Rodent Removal are also roofers, we have also made a table of contents with all of our information about rats , mouse , squirrels and Roofing , Roof Repair , Roof Replacement (articles & blog) stemming from to all about Rat poop , Mouse poop , Squirrel poop or Raccoon poop in Your Home & or Rats in Attic, to Roofing Contractors to Rodent Control.

How to get rid of Rats in Garden

How to Get Rid of Rats Outside in Garden

The approach to successful outdoor rodent control is different from tackling a normal rat in the attic problem. For one, rats travel about a football field's length a day; so even if you manage to kill all the rats around your home, more will come from neighboring, because rats suck, they dont have netflix and they have nothing better to do than ruin your day. Rats will get into more than just your garden and because of that we have another article, for those that live alittle more rural, how to get rid of rats outside.

Therefore, the key to outdoor rat control is a combination of:

  1. Controlling the existing population

  2. Getting rid of their colony

  3. Keeping your yard free of attractions for new rats.

Effective rat removal can be achieved in your yard — as the old saying goes : An ounce of prevention is a pound of cure” and nothing is truer when it comes to getting rats out of your yard for good.

 

Rats in Garden

Here are some simple prevention tips for homeowners, tenants and landlords to protect your garden and ultimately your home:

  • Clear out clutter or debris from yards, alleyways, by your home 

  • Keep gardens free of weeds and trash (maybe take your garden down in the winter)

  • Keep vines, bushes, and shrubs at least 6 inches away from buildings

  • Use hard plastic or metal trash cans with tight-fitting lids

  • Don't overfill garbage cans and empty them as often as possible

  • Never leave pet food out overnight

  • Monitor for  any rodentt sightings, burrows, droppings, or gnaw marks

HOW TO GET RID OF RATS OUTSIDE

Identify Rat Burrows & Remove them

Rat burrows are small holes in the ground where rats live and reproduce. Each burrow typically has one main entrance that’s around 2-4 inches wide, as well as side entrances and escape holes.

In the context of DFW metroplex neighborhoods, access to food and water most commonly comes in the form of garbage left on sidewalks and alleyways, although gardens, yards, and outdoor dining setups are also attractive spots for rats to set up their burrows.

  • If you find a rat burrow, the easiest way to close it is to fill it with soil and tamp down with a shovel.

  • Burrows in cracked or broken sidewalks may need to be filled with metal filler and cement.

  • Pest control professionals may fill active burrows with things to kill the rats inside, such as natural rodenticides or dry ice, before closing them.

Exclusion

Exclusion, one of the cornerstones of an Integrated Pest Management (IPM) approach, involves installing physical barriers to shut the rats out.

To prevent rats from being able to get inside buildings, city officials recommend sealing all holes and cracks in foundations, walls, floors, underneath doors, and around windows. Some examples of materials used for sealing include:

  • Caulk

  • Cement

  • Sheet metal

  • Door sweeps

  • Pipe collars

  • Wire screens and steel mesh

  • Expanding foam

Patches of empty dirt in gardens, planters, and tree beds should be fitted with a top layer of steel mesh or a screen to stop rats from burrowing beneath the soil.

Using a caulking gun, seal cracks and small holes with caulk or cement. Any gap that’s larger than half an inch is big enough for a rat to crawl through. For larger gaps and holes, fill them with cement or expansion foam before covering with steel mesh and seal with cement.

Doors with gaps should be fitted with metal door sweeps to prevent rats from squeezing through underneath. If you see gnaw marks, install sheet metal plates on the bottom of the door.

Lastly, seal any pipes leading into walls with pipe collars and cover any drains or vents with metal screens.

Rodenticides & Baiting

Baiting is the most effective and preferred method of long-term population control for outdoor rats, we only recommend poison if your house is sealed so as no animals will be able to get in, a poisoned animal stinks worse than anything you can imagine, but thankfully if you make that mistake we have an article on how to get rid of dead animal smell in your house.

Rodenticide bait comes in the blocks — placed inside of tamper-proof boxes. These boxes are called bait stations, and are designed to allow rats to get in and eat the poisoned bait, while keeping it safely out of reach from pets and children. Rats are intelligent animals, and will avoid taking bait if they see other rats dying from it. Rats take food back to their nests to feed their babies. Since the poison is slow acting it wont immediately kill them, the poisoned bait can be shared with other rats to effectively whittle down large outdoor rat populations.

kill rats to elimanite and dispose of rats outside

 Bait stations should be placed at the perimeter of your yard not near these places, don't invite rats to your home looking for a place to nest, invite them to the edge of your property, to your neighbors house, all of these are no go’s:

  • Doors, windows, and other entry points

  • Sheds and outbuildings

  • Pipes and vents

 If you are going to get rid of rats, you need to understand what attracts rats to gardens. You could be enticing rats without knowing it as there are plants that attract rats. For rat traps to be effective, you first must understand why the rats are there. Whatever is attracting the rats needs to be removed if traps are going to work.

Get Rid of Plants that attract rats

Plants that grow fruit and vegetables will attract rats since they provide an excellent source of food for them. Chances are there is a grocery store near your home, unless your a prepper, or have a very big garden, it doesn't feed you, so find a new hobby, Gardens make it really hard to get rid of rats because all fruit food and nuts taste better and doesn't kill them like the poison

 Getting Rid of Smells that attract rats

Odors and smells that come from pet waste, pet food, garbage containers, barbecue grills, birdfeeders, all attract rats and mice. A clean yard will drastically improve the prevention of attracting rodents.

 Overgrown Plants and shrubbery attracts rats

Rats do not prefer open spaces but rather overgrown areas, as they provide cover from predators and it’s also an ideal place for them to build their nests. To prevent rats from living in your yard, you must deny them access to shelter. Keep your yard nicely trimmed and remove any piles of wood, brush, debris, compost piles, dense shrubbery, ground covers, and ivy as this will attract rats over time. Also, keep storage shelters properly sealed – repair or seal all openings with durable materials, such as concrete, metal flashing, steel wool, or heavy welded wire.

 

Water attracts rats to your garden

Most rats require a constant water source and they tend to stay around these sources. It’s necessary to remove, cover, or repair any sources that provide a water source for these rodents. This includes swimming pools, leaky faucets, irrigation lines, water bowls for pets and other sources of standing water.

Set Outdoor Traps for Rats

There are several different kinds of rat traps. Each type of trap uses a different method of catching a rat, but all can be effective. With the right bait and location setup, the traditional snap traps are still the most common and effective way of catching rats. These rodents are primarily nut and seed eaters, so using a small amount of peanut butter or hazelnut spread works best. When temperatures drop outside, rodents tend to slow down and focus on building nests, so you can also lure them by using materials such as cotton balls, dental floss, yarn, or twine. Additionally, make sure you use gloves while setting up – rodents can detect your scent on traps you’ve handled and can potentially deter them from reaching your trap.

how to get rid of rats outside


In an attempt to remind customers that Rapid Rodent Removal are also roofers, we have also made a table of contents with all of our information about rats , mouse , squirrels and Roofing , Roof Repair , Roof Replacement (articles & blog) stemming from to all about Rat poop , Mouse poop , Squirrel poop or Raccoon poop in Your Home & or Rats in Attic, to Roofing Contractors to Rodent Control.


How to get rid of Opossums

How to get rid of Opossums in the Attic

The Best thing that can be done to get rid of Opossums is to make sure nothing is drawing them to your home. A few best practices are :

  • Remove Garbage, remove all garbage and food waste from the house and garden. Bring in your pet food as well!

  • Secure Garbage Bins, If necessary, you can even use a rope or bungee cord to seal it tight.

  • Secure Bird Feeders and Pet Food Dishes. Best advice is to remove the altogether 

  • Restrict Access to Water. 

  • Restrict Entry Points. Sealing and covering all entry points. Raccoons are excellent climbers, so make sure you seal the roof.

 Opossums are mostly nocturnal animals but may sometimes be heard during the daytime. Baby Opossums can extremely vocal – if you hear hissing, a sort of chattering, you probably have a family of Opossums living in your attic. You may also hear a heavy thumping sound. Opossums are bigger and heavier than rats or squirrels so they will move slower and have a heavier sound.

When you hear scratching noises in the attic, or just see them in your yard, and you want to attempt Wildlife Removal, you will have to trap the animal.

HOW TO GET RID OPOSSUMS IN YOUR ATTIC OR BACKYARD

How do you lure an Opossums into a trap?

Place your live trap far away from human or pet activity, along the edge of your property. Physical boundaries like fence lines, dense foliage, and garden edging make great placement guides, so set your trap along these structures. If you are dealing with a  Opossums indoors, you can set your trap near entry points in the garage, attic, or basement. Once you are satisfied with your trap placement, you can bait and arm it. Check your trap twice a day, once in the morning and once in the evening. Once you have captured a Opossums in your live trap, place a towel over the cage to avoid frightening the animal. Be sure to contact local authorities like animal control to confirm laws in your area about animal trapping and make sure you are correctly relocating the animal. Travel to your release location, which should be more than 20 miles away. Place the trap on the ground facing away from you, and open the trap.

What is used to trap Opossums?


If there are any fruit or vegetable plots, check these for animal activity, such as chewed or eaten plants, droppings, or tracks. Opossums will also eat pet food if left out overnight, so check for missing food or disturbed bowls. After identifying your pest animal, select the best bait to increase your chances of a successful capture. Opossums will eat anything, but they are especially attracted to sweets. For this, marshmallows is a low cost and effective bait option.

Opossums SHOULD be released within a ten-mile radius or within ten miles of the city limits of where they were originally captured and the release is best within the county in which they were originally captured, if you want them to live.

So, if Opossums are cramping your backyard ideas, don't freak out. With a bit of perseverance and the right tactic, you can keep Opossums away, without harming them and without having to call pest control. 

1. REMOVE FOOD SOURCES

2. MAKE YOUR HOME AND BACKYARD LESS FRIENDLY

3. USE LIVE CAGE TRAPS 

4. INSTALL MOTION DETECTOR SPRINKLERS

5. TRY MOTION DETECTOR LIGHTS
6. INSTALL MESH BARRIERS AROUND YOUR VEGETABLE BEDS
7. KEEP YOUR BBQ AREA CLEAN
8. WATCH YOUR COMPOST HEAP

 

IS THERE A SCENT THAT REPELS Opossums ?

In one word, no. While you may read advice online that recommends various essential oils to repel Opossums , they are all lies.

In an attempt to remind customers that Rapid Rodent Removal are also roofers, we have also made a table of contents with all of our information about rats , mouse , squirrels and Roofing , Roof Repair , Roof Replacement (articles & blog) stemming from to all about Rat poop , Mouse poop , Squirrel poop or Raccoon poop in Your Home & or Rats in Attic, to Roofing Contractors to Rodent Control.

How to get rid of Squirrels

How to get rid of Squirrels in the Attic

How do Squirrels Get Inside Your Attics

To get rid of squirrels in attic crawl space, first off, you need to find out where their entry points are.

The possible entry points for squirrels getting into your attic include uncovered vents in the roof and wall, roof edge, plumbing mats and chimneys. You can take a thorough examination around your houses to see if there are strange holes in these spots. If yes, it is likely that squirrels have been nesting in your attic.

Track Squirrels in the Attic

Though squirrels are active during the daytime, you may still find it difficult to locate their nests and find their traces on your own.

Limit the Access to Your Attic

Another best way to get rid of squirrels in the attic is to make your attic less accessible for squirrels. Here are some methods that you may take into account:

  • Cover chimneys with caps to prevent the squirrels from falling into;

  • Install mesh fencing underneath porches and in front of the openings;

  • Patch up cracks on your fences or wood sidings;

  • Leave one entry point for squirrels to get out;

  • Trim tree branches near the attic from time to time.

Remove Food Source Around Your House

Squirrels usually diet on hard mast like acorns, walnuts, fruit and seeds. When they fail to seek the food listed above, they will eat green plants as well.

To get rid of squirrels in the attic naturally, you need to remove or cover all accessible food sources around your houses.

Trap to Get Rid of them in Attic and Walls

Live traps and funnels are also feasible ways to get rid of flying squirrels in the attic. You may seal all possible entry points and leave one open to set up traps.

By putting squirrels’ favorite food like acorns and seeds as bait in front of the traps, you are able to attract the squirrels to the traps successfully. Once they leave the attic, they can’t get back anymore.

In order to get rid of squirrels in the attic completely, make sure that no baby squirrels are left in the attic. Or else, their parents will come back and continue to destroy your attic.

Relocate the Squirrels humanly

After catching the squirrels and their babies in the live traps, you are able to get rid of squirrels in the attic without killing them by relocating the whole squirrel family to a forest or a woodland at least 10 miles away from your houses.

In an attempt to remind customers that Rapid Rodent Removal are also roofers, we have also made a table of contents with all of our information about rats , mouse , squirrels and Roofing , Roof Repair , Roof Replacement (articles & blog) stemming from to all about Rat poop , Mouse poop , Squirrel poop or Raccoon poop in Your Home & or Rats in Attic, to Roofing Contractors to Rodent Control.

How to get rid of Raccoons

Are Raccoons creeping around your property eating trash and damaging your lawn or roof ?


Do you know the steps to identifying a raccoon problem ?

There are several signs that may indicate a raccoon problem:

  1. Noise: Raccoons are active at night, so if you hear scratching, scurrying, or other noises coming from your attic or chimney, it could be raccoons.

  2. Damage: Raccoons can cause damage to your attic or chimney as they move around and make a nest. Look for holes in the roof or chimney, torn insulation, or other damage.

  3. Droppings: Raccoons leave droppings that are similar to dog feces and can be found in the attic or chimney.

  4. Tracks or footprints: If you see raccoon tracks or footprints in or around your attic or chimney, it is a strong indication that raccoons are present.

  5. Sighting: Seeing raccoons coming and going from your attic or chimney is another way to know if they are present.

  6. Smell: Raccoons often leave behind a strong, musky odor that can be detected in the attic or chimney.

  7. Damage in garden or lawn: Raccoons often dig through gardens and lawns in search of food, leaving behind damaged plants and holes in the ground.

  8. Raccoon poop on your property or in the attic.

It's important to note that if you suspect raccoons in your attic or chimney, it's best to call a professional wildlife control company to safely and humanely perform raccoon removal them.

The Best thing that can be done to get rid of Raccoons is to make sure nothing is drawing them to your home. A few best practices are :

  • Remove Garbage, remove all garbage and food waste from the house and garden. Bring in your pet food as well!

  • Secure Garbage Bins, If necessary, you can even use a rope or bungee cord to seal it tight.

  • Secure Bird Feeders and Pet Food Dishes. Best advice is to remove the altogether 

  • Restrict Access to Water. 

  • Restrict Entry Points. Sealing and covering all entry points. Raccoons are excellent climbers, so make sure you seal the roof.

How to get rid of Raccoons in Yard & Attic

The best way to get rid of raccoons in your yard and attic is to hire a professional wildlife control company. These companies have the experience and equipment necessary to safely and humanely remove raccoons from your property. They will also take steps to prevent the raccoons from returning, such as by sealing off entry points to the attic and making sure there is no food source that raccoons can access.

Here are some steps that a professional wildlife control company will take to remove raccoons:

  1. Inspection: A professional will inspect your property to identify raccoon activity and find entry points.

  2. Exclusion: They will seal off any entry points to your attic and other areas of your home where raccoons may be living.

  3. Trapping: They will use live traps to capture the raccoons and safely remove them from your property.

  4. Cleanup: They will remove any feces, urine, and other debris left behind by the raccoons.

  5. Prevention: They will recommend ways to prevent future raccoon invasions, such as keeping food and trash securely stored, and removing possible food sources from your yard

It's important to note that trapping and relocating raccoons is not always legal and can be inhumane, so it's best to consult with a professional for the best course of action. Also, it's not advisable to try to remove raccoons on your own as they can carry diseases and can become aggressive when cornered.

Raccoons are mostly nocturnal animals but may sometimes be heard during the daytime. Baby raccoons are extremely vocal – if you hear growls, a sort of chattering, whistles, screams, hissing, or snarls you probably have a family of raccoons living in your attic. You may also hear a heavy thumping sound. Raccoons are bigger and heavier than rats or squirrels so they will move slower and have a heavier sound.

Raccoons are not considered hibernators, however they become significantly less active beginning around October and only reemerge in early spring. A raccoon’s mating season is from January through March, with a female raccoon giving birth to between 4-6 young. They will begin to hunt for themselves between 9-12 weeks of age but may stay with their mother up to a year old. Be wary of a mother raccoon with her young as she will tend to be extremely aggressive to protect them.

How do you lure an Raccoons into a trap?

Here are some steps to effectively lure a raccoon into a trap:

  1. Identify the raccoon's food source: Raccoons have a varied diet, but in urban and suburban areas, they may be attracted to pet food, birdseed, fallen fruits, and trash.

  2. Choose the right bait: Raccoons are primarily attracted to fish, chicken, and sweet fruits like apples, grapes, and melons.

  3. Place the bait in the trap: The trap should be baited with the raccoons' preferred food, and it should be placed in an area where raccoons are known to frequent.

  4. Check the trap regularly: It's important to check the trap at least once a day to ensure that any animals caught are not suffering and to release any non-target animals.

  5. Dispose of the raccoon: Once you have trapped a raccoon, it should be released at least five miles away from your property.

Place your live trap far away from human or pet activity, along the edge of your property. Physical boundaries like fence lines, dense foliage, and garden edging make great placement guides, so set your trap along these structures. If you are dealing with a  Opossums indoors, you can set your trap near entry points in the garage, attic, or basement. Once you are satisfied with your trap placement, you can bait and arm it. Check your trap twice a day, once in the morning and once in the evening. Once you have captured a Opossums in your live trap, place a towel over the cage to avoid frightening the animal. Be sure to contact local authorities like animal control to confirm laws in your area about animal trapping and make sure you are correctly relocating the animal. Travel to your release location, which should be more than 20 miles away. Place the trap on the ground facing away from you, and open the trap.

How to trap a Raccoon ?


If there are any fruit or vegetable plots, check these for animal activity, such as chewed or eaten plants, droppings, or tracks. Opossums will also eat pet food if left out overnight, so check for missing food or disturbed bowls. After identifying your pest animal, select the best bait to increase your chances of a successful capture. Opossums will eat anything, but they are especially attracted to sweets. For this, marshmallows is a low cost and effective bait option.

Opossums SHOULD be released within a ten-mile radius or within ten miles of the city limits of where they were originally captured and the release is best within the county in which they were originally captured, if you want them to live.

Trapping raccoons can be a complex process that should be done by a professional wildlife control company. They have the experience and equipment necessary to trap raccoons safely and humanely. However, if you still want to know the steps, here they are:

  1. Identify the raccoon: Look for signs of raccoons, such as droppings, tracks, or damage to your property, to determine where the raccoons are active.

  2. Choose a trap: There are several types of traps that can be used to catch raccoons, including live traps and kill traps. Live traps are recommended because they allow for the raccoons to be captured and released elsewhere.

  3. Bait the trap: Raccoons are attracted to various foods such as fruits, vegetables, fish, and meat.

  4. Set the trap: Position the trap in an area where you have seen raccoons or where they are likely to travel.

  5. Check the trap regularly: Check the trap at least once a day to ensure that any animals caught are not suffering and to release any non-target animals.

  6. Dispose of the raccoon: Once you have trapped a raccoon, it should be released at least five miles away from your property.

It's important to note that trapping raccoons can be illegal in some states and municipalities and that it is not a humane long-term solution, raccoons are wild animals that are best left alone in their natural habitat. And also, for safety reasons, do not attempt to trap raccoons on your own, it is important to hire a professional wildlife control company.

Raccoons are omnivorous and opportunistic so they will eat anything they can get their hands on. It is not uncommon to see raccoons eating fruits, nuts, berries, insects, rodents, frogs, and eggs. In urban and suburban areas they are known for foraging in trash cans. Raccoons are also frequently caught eating pet food that is left outside or in garages.

Raccoons usually live in dens that they have made in trees or sewers. However, raccoons are more and more frequently choosing to make their dens in attics as it provides shelter, warmth, and safety for their young and themselves. They will burrow into your insulation, chew on wires, tear holes in the sides of your house, and even come down into your home if you have food that is not tightly stored. They have also been known to make their dens in and around chimneys, which causes several problems including people in the home inhaling urine and feces, or the raccoons getting stuck and dying.

How to Keep Raccoons Away

So, if raccoons are cramping your backyard ideas, don't despair. With a bit of perseverance and the right tactic, you can keep raccoons away, without harming them and without having to call pest control. 

1. REMOVE FOOD SOURCES

2. MAKE YOUR HOME AND BACKYARD LESS FRIENDLY

3. USE LIVE CAGE TRAPS 

4. INSTALL MOTION DETECTOR SPRINKLERS

5. TRY MOTION DETECTOR LIGHTS
6. INSTALL MESH BARRIERS AROUND YOUR VEGETABLE BEDS (if you have them)
7. KEEP YOUR BBQ AREA CLEAN (if you have one)
8. WATCH YOUR COMPOST HEAP

 


DO YOU HAVE QUESTIONS ABOUT RACCOONS ?

IS THERE A SCENT THAT REPELS RACCOONS ?

In one word, no. While you may read advice online that recommends various essential oils to repel raccoons, they are all lies.


How do i know if raccoons are in my attic or chimney ?

There are several signs that may indicate the presence of raccoons in your attic or chimney:

  1. Noise: Raccoons are active at night, so if you hear scratching, scurrying, or other noises coming from your attic or chimney, it could be raccoons.

  2. Damage: Raccoons can cause damage to your attic or chimney as they move around and make a nest. Look for holes in the roof or chimney, torn insulation, or other damage.

  3. Droppings: Raccoons leave droppings that are similar to dog feces and can be found in the attic or chimney.

  4. Tracks or footprints: If you see raccoon tracks or footprints in or around your attic or chimney, it is a strong indication that raccoons are present.

  5. Sighting: Seeing raccoons coming and going from your attic or chimney is another way to know if they are present.

It's important to note that if you suspect raccoons in your attic or chimney, it's best to call a professional wildlife control company to safely and humanely remove them.

Raccoons inside roof - inside the roof, you say ?

HOW TO GET RID OF RACCOONS : EXTRA METHODS TECHNIQUES AND INFO

Raccoons, female raccoon, health risk, wildlife control, open holes, cage trap, professionals servicing, remove the babies, raccoon roundworm, raccoon problems, call a professional, animal control, raccoon infestation.

In addition to exclusion and raccoon trapping, the experts at wildlife management services go the extra mile to educate customers about habitat modification, like improving neighborhood sanitation, as the most humane, long-term solution to managing raccoons and other larger vertebrate pests.

Deter raccoons from visiting your property by using motion-activated sprinklers, securing trash cans, bagging all household trash and containing it securely, keeping pet food inside, and using exclusion fences to protect areas like compost piles and fish ponds.

If you have found a raccoon infestation in your attic, it may be because most attics have an accessible entrance, shelter the raccoons from weather, and are away from household noises but not too far from food.

In an attempt to remind customers that Rapid Rodent Removal are also roofers, we have also made a table of contents with all of our information about rats , mouse , squirrels and Roofing , Roof Repair , Roof Replacement (articles & blog) stemming from to all about Rat poop , Mouse poop , Squirrel poop or Raccoon poop in Your Home & or Rats in Attic, to Roofing Contractors to Rodent Control.

How to tell the difference between a Mouse & Rat | Rat vs Mouse Pictures, Size, Poop, Behavior compared

What is the Difference Between a Rat and a Mouse?


Rats and mice are both rodents, so look similar - the biggest difference is their size. Rats are larger and heavier while mice have smaller slender bodies
Mice are often more brown than rats
, and they have darker-toned bellies. While a rat's tail normally carries black, scaled rings, a mouse's tail is smooth.
Rats and mice are two different animals, but both belong to the rodent family, and share similar appearances with the most significant distinction being their size. Rats are notably larger and heavier, whereas mice possess smaller, slender bodies. Additionally, mice have long, slender, hair-covered tails relative to their body size, while rat tails are shorter, thicker, and devoid of hair, mice tend to be a bit bolder than rats.
We also find it worth mentioning that mice DO NOT turn into rats.


HOW TO TELL THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN A RAT AND MOUSE
(poop, size, behavior compared)




RAT VS MOUSE

There are several differences between rats and mice DO YOU KNOW THEM ?

  • Size: A Rat is larger and heavier than a mouse. Adult rats are generally about 8 to 10 inches in length, including their tail, and weigh around 8 to 12 ounces. In contrast, adult mice are generally about 5 to 7 inches in length, including their tail, and weigh around 1/2 to 1 ounce. Rat poop is bigger than mouse poop.

  • Body shape: Rats have thicker bodies and shorter, thicker tails than mice. Mice have slender bodies and long, slender tails.

  • Tail: Rats have shorter, thicker tails that are hairless, while mice have longer, hair-covered tails.

  • Color: Rats are typically brown or black in color, while mice are typically gray or brown.

  • Behavior: Rats are more social and tend to live in large groups, while mice are more solitary and tend to live alone or in small groups.

  • Diet: Rats are omnivorous and will eat a wide variety of foods, while mice are primarily herbivorous and tend to eat seeds and plants.

  • Habitat: Rats are more adaptable and can thrive in a wide range of environments, while mice are more selective and tend to prefer specific types of habitats.

Rodents, such as rats and mice, are commonly found in homes and businesses due to their ability to adapt to human environments. There are many types of rats, three main species that are prevalent pests: the Brown rat, the Ship rat, and the House mouse. The main difference between rats and mice is their size, with rats being larger and heavier and mice having smaller, slender bodies. Mice also have longer, hair-covered tails compared to the shorter, thicker, hairless tails of rats. Both rats and mice have incisor teeth in their upper jaw and short legs, but there are other distinguishing characteristics and habits that can help to identify which pest is present.

The three main species of rodents that are prevalent pests in homes and businesses worldwide are in need of rodent removal :

  1. Brown rat (Rattus norvegicus): Also known as the Common rat or Norway rat, this species is larger and heavier than the other two main species.

  2. Ship rat (Rattus rattus): Also known as the Black rat or Roof rat, this species is smaller and more agile than the Brown rat.

  3. House mouse (Mus domesticus): This species has several subspecies that are common in different parts of the world, and these are increasingly being recognized as separate species. However, these subspecies are virtually indistinguishable from each other.


There are many different species of rodents, and some of these have subspecies. For example, the House mouse (Mus domesticus) has several subspecies that are common in different parts of the world, and these are increasingly being recognized as separate species. However, these subspecies are virtually indistinguishable from each other. Other rodent species may also have subspecies, but it would depend on the specific species in question.

In general, rodents are a diverse group of animals, with more than 2,000 different species that are found all over the world. They come in a wide range of sizes and shapes, and have adapted to many different environments, from deserts to forests to grasslands. Some common examples of rodent species include rats, mice, gophers, groundhogs, hamsters, guinea pigs, and squirrels.

What do mice look like?

Mice are small rodents with slender bodies and long, slender tails that are covered in hair. They have pointed snouts and large, round ears. Mice are typically gray or brown in color, although some species may have white, black, or tan fur. Mice have small, delicate paws with sharp claws, which they use for climbing and digging. Adult mice are generally about 5 to 7 inches in length, including their tail, and weigh around 1/2 to 1 ounce.

RAT VS MOUSE ?

mouse vs rat picture

What do rats look like?

Rats are larger than mice and have thicker bodies and shorter, thicker tails that are hairless. They have pointed snouts and small, triangular ears. Rats are typically brown or black in color, although some species may have gray or tan fur. Rats have strong legs with large paws and long, sharp claws, which they use for climbing and digging. Adult rats are generally about 8 to 10 inches in length, including their tail, and weigh around 8 to 12 ounces.

I can not tell you the number of times a client has told us at rapid rodent removal they have a mouse in their garage only for it to turn out to be a rat. Just the word, “rat”, can send shivers down the toughest man’s spine, even if its a dead rat. Nobody wants to have a rat problem, and need rodent control. They are big and terrifying. Their tails are just weird. And those beady eyes. Gah. If you had to choose a problem to have in your house, I bet you’d choose mouse. Small and unassuming, they are kind of cute when not living rent-free in your attic. They are obviously scared of you so no danger of it charging and biting your ankle. And how much damage can such a tiny creature really do? 

These are the preconceived notions most people have about these two free-loaders. But are they accurate? Let’s take a deep dive into both rats and mice and see if we can find the true differences and similarities. 

Let’s begin with some similarities. Both mice and rats are rodents, mammals in the order Rodentia that are characterized by their single pair of incisors in the lower or upper jaw which continuously grow throughout their life. They have good company in this order. Squirrels, beavers, porcupines, and gophers (just to name a few) all belong to Rodentia, too. Rodents are found throughout the world in various climates and environments due to their adaptability. However, in North America, we can narrow down your unwanted roommates a bit to three species. First up is the Brown Rat (Rattus norvegicus, also known as the Common Rat or Norway Rat). These are, you guessed it, brown (or sometimes gray). Next is the Ship Rat (Rattus rattus, also known as the Black Rat or Roof Rat). Black to light brown in color, this species of rat is thought to have originated on the Indian subcontinent, catching rides on ships to spread throughout the globe. Lastly, we have the House Mouse (Mus musculus domesticus). With a pointed nose and large round ears, this is the most abundant species of mouse. 

frequently asked questions:
about the house mouse, rats, mice and other rodent species diets and behaviors

No matter if its a one mouse, or an entire rat or mice infestation, rodents are very adept at learning how to get in residential homes, and most customers report them ending up in thier attic or roof, which requires, you guessed it, rodent control.

Droppings - Rat poop vs Mouse poop compared

if its small like rice its from mice, if its kinda fat its from a rat (picture of rat & mouse poop)


What is the difference between rat and mouse droppings ?

When you run into your surprise house guest in the middle of the night it doesn’t matter which of these three species it is. You can exclaim, “My, what big teeth you have! And what a long tail I see! And what powerful legs you have!” Then hide in your closet and call 469-609-RATS.

What does rat poop look like ?
What does mice / mouse poop look like ?
What does squirrel poop look like ?
What does raccoon poop look like ?
What does opossum poop look like ?


Identification of Mouse vs Rat compared

So you have eyes on the perp and want to know which species you are looking at? Let’s compare their different appearances. A mouse has a smaller everything, nothing on a mouse is bigger than a rat.

A Rat has a slender body, pointed nose, and large, thin ears. Their tail is usually slightly longer than the length of their body and head combined.


RATS VS MOUSE AND MORE

identification of rat vs mouse


DID YOU KNOW mice tend to be a bit bolder than rats ?


Mice are easily distinguished from the two rat species by their considerably smaller size. A full-grown house mouse can be anywhere from 3-10 cm long (compared to a rat’s sizable 16-40 cm length!). However, it would be easy to get mixed up between an adult mouse and an adolescent rat. To distinguish the two, mice have large rounded ears (versus the oval, almost pointed ears of a rat) and their thin tail is usually longer than the length of their body (versus a thick tail shorter than their body, like rats). A young rat will have much larger feet and head when compared with their bodies than a mouse will. And mice are typically light gray or brown in color. 


DID YOU KNOW rats are medium sized to large rodents but small on the mamal side ?

Now you’ve ruled out mouse from above but which species of rat is it? A Brown Rat will have a thick, stout body with small hairy ears and a blunt nose. Their tail is shorter than the length of the body and head with paler coloring underneath the tail.


DID YOU KNOW a mouse has smaller tail and is smaller in weight and length ?


A Rat has a slender body, pointed nose, and large, thin ears. Their tail is usually slightly longer than the length of their body and head combined.


did you know a roof rat is more cautious than a tiny house mouse ?




Rats vs mice compared : Young vs. adult

Young, weaned rats are still larger than adult mice, weighing around 100 grams at six weeks. However, to the casual observer, very young rats and adult mice can be difficult to tell apart.

Here's what to look for: baby rats will have more juvenile proportions than adult rodents. Their heads and feet will be large relative to their bodies, their faces will be stubby and blunt with wide noses. Adult mice, on the other hand, will have adult proportions: a small, triangular head with a small nose and little delicate feet as compared to the body. In addition, mouse ears are very large relative to their heads, rat ears are smaller relative to their heads. Rats also have thicker tails than mice.
Whether mouse, brown rat, or ship rat, call 469-609-RATS and we will come help you get rid of your unwanted guests.

rat vs mice Diet:


While most rodents are herbivores, sticking exclusively to plant materials for their nutrition, rats and mice are much less picky. Both are omnivores, meaning they will eat both plants and meat, oftentimes feeding on members of their own species if the opportunity presents itself. read our article on the best bait to use on a rat trap, or the best mouse trap bait

DID YOU KNOW norway rats are much larger and have coarser fur ?


Brown rats and mice both tend to look for food in the same area from night to night while ship rats move locations frequently, thus making their capture more challenging. They also prefer cereals to other foods while ship rats search for moist fruits (lookin at you, gardeners!). Despite these food preferences, I have had great luck using peanut butter, candy bars, and tuna on the traps. Who knew rodents had a sweet tooth? 

DID YOU KNOW rats have proportionately larger heads and feet ?

Brown rats will drink up to 60ml of water a day (about ¼ cup) while ship rats only require half that. Shockingly, mice can survive up to a month with no water, making it hard to drought them out of your home. 

rat and mouse traps

DID YOU KNOW rats have bodies that are five times larger than mice ?

A common draw for all three rodents is dog food and oftentimes it is for this reason people end up with rodents in and around their house. Those who store their dog food in their garage or on their porch will often find holes chewed into the bottom of the bag. The safest way to store dog food is to put it in a plastic or metal container with a locking lid and keep it somewhere indoors. 

Rat and mouse habitat and health problems:

As we noted before, these three species can be found on every continent but let’s zoom in on their unique locations. 

Brown rats usually live on the ground in burrows. They are also commonly found in sewer systems (Master Splinter?), often causing massive damage to the pipes. They use shredded materials to make their nests within their burrows.


rats are much larger have coarser fur and have proportionately larger heads and feet

Ship rats are, unsurprisingly, found mostly in coastal regions. You may be thinking, “Whew. Dallas isn’t coastal!” but we are in relatively close proximity to the gulf coast, making ship rats a common household pest here, too. Ship rats are climbers, living high up in trees when left to their own devices. If they find their way into your house, they will most likely be in your attic, using your insulation as a material for bedding and nesting. 

DID YOU KNOW mice tend to be bolder than brown or norway rats species ?


Mice are a combination of both the rat species. While they love to burrow into the ground, they are also agile climbers, making themselves at home in trees and, yes, attics. 

Signs:

More times than not, you won’t actually see the rodent. Instead, you will find a series of clues or hear noises that tip you off to their presence. Let’s briefly discuss a few of these signs you might notice.

Let’s talk poop. Brown rat droppings are wide and are a dark brown color. They are typically found in a tapered, spindle shape – resembling a large grain of rice. Ship rat droppings are long and thin, and are smaller than brown rat droppings. Ship rat droppings are more regular in form with a banana-like curve and pointed ends. Mouse droppings are approximately 3-8mm in length, and are often found scattered randomly. Mouse droppings are granular in shape and black in color, found most often near nesting areas.

Another sign you may see is smudging or streaking along the surface they are traveling. The brown rat tends to walk on the pads of the feet and the surfaces that it travels along show continuous smudges from the oily fur, whereas ship rats tend to walk on their toes and the surfaces that they travel along show separated smudges. Mice are, in my opinion, more disgusting in this regard than either rat. Grease from their body, combined with dirt and urine, build up into small pillars where they spend their time. These can remain for a long time, so their presence may not indicate a current infestation. A mouse will also, obviously, have a smaller footprint than a rat.

As far as damage is concerned, both can be capable of extensive amounts. Those teeth we mentioned at the beginning of this article, the ones that grow continuously, need to be constantly worn down to keep their length in check. Because of this, rats and mice chew on everything. Wires, pipes, siding, drywall. I have even seen a lot of cases where the rodents have chewed into the air ducts in the attic to benefit from the cool or warm air circulating through your home. This isn’t only damaging, but costly, too. I don’t think any of us want to be accidentally air conditioning our attics, especially in the middle of a Texas summer.

difference between baby rat and mouse

I hate to be the one to break it to you but if you have A rodent in your house, you most likely have Several rodents in your house. Let’s discuss their breeding habits to help you understand how quickly your small problem can become a big problem.


The newborns of all three rodents are blind, hairless and completely dependent on the mother for feeding and protection for the first several weeks of life. Mice, who breed faster than rats, reach sexual maturity between 4 and 7 weeks of age. The younger they are, the smaller their litters, having anywhere between 4 and 16 babies each time. This can happen up to 8 times a year (that’s more frequently than every other month, for those of you counting). The brown rat reaches sexual maturity sometime between 3-4 months of age. They begin weaning their litter around 4 weeks old but, fun fact, they don’t have to have weaned their litter before conceiving again. Their litter size is typically 7-8 and they typically breed 3-6 times a year. Ship rats are just slightly slower to conceive than brown rats, having a longer weaning period for their newborns. They reach sexual maturity around 3-4 months old, breeding only 6 times over the course of their 18 month lifespan (once every 3 months is a slight improvement, though I don’t think it makes me feel much better). They are capable of having  7-8 babies with each litter. 

So, in one 6-month period of having a pair of male/female rodents in your attic, the female can have anywhere between 14-48 babies, depending on species. Assuming half of those babies are female, I don’t want to know the math on how big the population could be by the end of those 6 months. Any math experts out there care to do the calculations?

Difference Between a Rat & Mouse Behavior:

We started out this article with some preconceived notions about rats vs. mice. One of them was that a rat was more likely to chase and attack you while a mouse is probably more likely to be scared and avoid human contact. This is, in fact, backwards from reality.

Even though they are smaller in size, mice tend to be a bit bolder than rats. Mice are usually very curious creatures and will explore any new things they come across, including traps. Rats, on the other hand, are very careful and will choose to avoid new things in their path until they have had time to get used to them being there. You are unlikely to see them (until they are dead in a trap) and even less likely to be attacked by one. Just don’t corner it and it should scamper away. 

Rats and house mice now have many genetic, reproductive, developmental, morphological and anatomical differences.

How does a rats behaviour differ from a mouse?

• Genetic differnces:   rats have 22 chromosome pairs, house mice have 20 (see Levan 1991).  rats have 2.75 billion base pairs while mice have 2.6 billion (humans have 2.9). About 90% of rat genes have counterparts in the mouse and human genomes

• Growth differences: In general,  rats develop more slowly than house mice. For example,  rat gestation is slightly longer (21-24 days) than house mouse gestation (19-20 days).  rats lactate for about 3 weeks, house mice for 2 weeks. Both species are born naked and blind, but  rats open their eyes at 6 days, they are fully furred at 15 days. House mice open their eyes at 3 days, have fur at 10 days (etc.).

• Anatomical differences:  rats have 6 pairs of nipples, house mice have 5 pairs.

• Morphological differences:  rats are larger, heavier and longer than house mice ( rat: 350-650 grams, 9-11 inch bodies and 7-9 inch tails; house mice: 30-90 grams, 3-4 inch bodies and 3-4 inch tails). Correlated with this larger size,  rat body parts are larger than those of the house mouse -- rats have larger ears, feet etc. The heads of  rats are heavy, blunt and chunky, house mouse heads are small and sharply triangular with pointed muzzles. Note, however, that rats have smaller ears relative to their heads than house mice.

Mouse-killing behavior in rats is called muricide by professionals

Rats can, and do, kill mice, a behavior known as muricide. Muricide is a form of predatory behavior: rats hunt, kill and eat mice.

How common is muricide?

Karli (1956) found that about 70% of wild rats and 12% of domestic laboratory rats kill mice. Male and female rats are equally likely to kill mice. Similarly, Galef (1970) found that 67% to 77% of captive born wild rats kill mice.

Description of muricide

Muricide is a stereotyped behavior, performed in much the same way each time: the rat chases the mouse around the cage and bites it using its sharp front incisors, usually aiming for the mouse's head, neck, or upper back. The first bite is frequently fatal, but the mouse may delay the rat's attacks by defending itself (by rearing up and boxing with its front paws or laying on its back). Eventually, however, the rat delivers a fatal bite. Mouse-killing behavior is very rapid, lasting only a few seconds.

The preferred area to bite is the back: out of 671 mice killed by rats, 89% were bitten on the spinal cord (specifically: 65% neck, 13% thoracic, 11% lumbar). Only 7% were bitten on the belly and 4% were bitten on the head.

Do rats eat the mice they kill?

Karli (1956) found that all mouse-killing rats (wild or domestic) consumed part of the mice they killed. Specifically, out of 683 mice killed by rats, after 7 hours 25% of the mice had been entirely eviscerated (brain, thoracic and abdominal viscera), 67% had been partially eviscerated, and only 8% had not been eaten.

Wild rats tended to start eating at the spot where they had bitten the mouse, which is usually the neck. They gradually opened the thorax and consumed the thoracic viscera, then proceeded to the liver. In contrast, domestic rats went right to the brain, opening the skull and consuming all or part of the brain, no matter what killing method had been used.

Exogenous and endogenous influences

Mouse-killing is a complex behavior involving several neurotransmitter systems

Mouse-killing is also affected by by rearing , environmental conditions, social conditions, diet, learning. Rats are more likely to kill mice at night than during the day.

Mouse-killing is affected by hunger, too: rats kill mice more when they are hungry and at times when they are normally inclined to eat food. Rats may start killing mice when they are starving, but stop when they are given plenty of food .

Familiarity with mice also plays a role: rats reared with mice tend not to kill mice as adults. Specifically, Galef found that 67-77% of captive born wild rats kill mice. However, if captive born wild rats are raised with a mouse from weaning to age 3 months, none of them kill the mice they're familiar with. When presented with an unfamiliar mouse, only 7% of the mouse-reared rats killed it.

Response of mice to rats

Rat odor is stressful to mice and has an effect on their behavior and reproduction. In fact, rat odor is sometimes used as a predator odor to study anxiety and antipredator behavior in mice.

Specifically, domestic and wild-stock mice who are exposed to a conscious or anesthetized rat tend to flee, and if prevented from fleeing, they show defensive or attack behavior.

Mice housed in the same room as rats tend to be more stressed than mice housed without rats. Mice who can smell rat urine take ten times longer to start eating a treat than mice who cannot. Mice who were exposed to rat urine for just a few minutes startle more afterwards, even up to two days after the rat urine exposure. Pregnant mice exposed to rat urine produce fewer litters than mice who were not exposed.

The Norway rat and the house mouse had a common murine rodent ancestor. How long ago that common ancestor lived is a matter of debate, however. The fossil record indicates that the most recent common ancestor of Norway rats and house mice lived about 8-14 million years ago. Geneticists, however, estimated that their most recent common ancestor lived about 41 million years ago.

Brief history of house mice

The ancestors of the house mouse (Mus musculus) lived in the steppes of present-day Pakistan. Ten thousand years ago, at the end of the last ice age, neolithic farmers moved from the Fertile Crescent into the steppes of Pakistan, and these small rodents found a delightful new source of food and shelter.

When humans migrated away from the steppes to colonize other areas, mice went along as stowaways in the humans' carts and later, their ships. House mice arrived in the new world in the 16th century, arriving with explorers and colonists. Mice went everywhere with humans, living in and around their houses, a human-dependent association called commensalism. Today, commensal house mice live in and around human dwellings on every continent, in every climate.

mice and rats and health problems compared & different types offspring characteristics frequently asked questions ie : a mouse is smaller , a rat is more cautious

Today, commensal house mice are divided into four subspecies: M. musculus bactrianus are the descendants of the original, ancestral house mice first encountered by our neolithic ancestors. They live in India, Pakistan and Afghanistan. M. musculus castaneus lives in Southeast Asia. M. musculus musculus lives in Russia and western China, and M. musculus domesticus lives in Europe, from whence it traveled to the Americas, Australia, New Zealand, and Africa with the colonists.

Domestication: Domestic mice originated from stocks captured in China, Japan and Europe and developed into fancy mice. These fancy mice were found in pet shops in the 20th century, and were developed into laboratory mouse strains. Fancy mice are primarily descended from M. musculus domesticus, with a little admixture of the other three subspecies. As such, domestic mice do not represent one of the single subspecies, but are a mixture of all four.

how rats and mice are different in size, fur, weight, tail length, dropping characteristics, diet, lifespan, breeding habits, and the damages they cause.

Rat Identification

From the Norway rat to the roof rat, these rodents are known for being larger than their mouse counterparts.

  • Rats have thicker bodies and tails that are shorter than the length of their body.

  • They possess small hairy ears and larger feet.

  • They weigh anywhere from 150 to 300 grams.

  • Rat droppings are banana-shaped and much bigger than mice droppings at 10–20 mm long.

  • Rats produce 3–6 litters a year with up to 10 pups in each litter.

  • Rats are adventurous, omnivorous eaters who will feed on a variety of grains and meats.

  • They forage overnight and nest in garages, trees, and basements.

Mice/Mouse identification

Mice are typically significantly smaller than rats and exhibit different behaviors. Here’s how to tell them apart:

  • The house mouse is usually just 2–4 inches long.

  • Mice have larger ears and a longer tail compared to its body length.

  • Mice are often gray or brown in color, with a lighter shade or white color on their bellies.

  • Mice droppings have pointed ends and are just 1–2 mm long.

  • Most mice feed on fruits, seeds, grains, and occasionally meat.

  • They produce 5–10 litters a year with up to 14 mice in each litter.

  • Mice forage at dusk and nest in attics, garages, basements, and more.

Starve

Rodents will eat almost anything! Starve them out by eliminating potential sources of food.
  • Use a trash can with a lid. Provide enough garbage cans with tight fitting lids to hold all garbage between pickups.

  • Bring garbage to the curb as close to pick-up time as possible. Garbage left on the curb for too long attracts rats.

  • Rinse containers before placing in recycling bin.

  • Keep outside cooking areas and grills clean.

  • Pick up dog poop regularly.

  • Don’t leave pet food outside. 

  • Don’t leave food outside for stray cats, pigeons, or squirrels.

  • Keep bird feeders away from the house, and use squirrel guards to limit access to the feeder by squirrels and other rodents. If possible, don’t leave bird feeders out overnight. Use "mess-free" seed, or place bird feeders over concrete so you can sweep up any dropped seed.

Evict
Attack their favorite places to seek shelter and reproduce.
  • Clean up any clutter or litter in and around your yard.

  • Get rid of old trucks, cars, and old tires that rats could use as homes.

  • Remove piles of newspapers, paper bags, cardboard, and bottles in your yard.

  • Store items away from walls and off the ground.

  • Move woodpiles far away from the house.

  • Remove dead trees and stumps.

  • Rodents are often found in burrows under bushes and plants. Keep tall grass, bushes, shrubs, and mulch away from building foundations.

  • Keep grass cut short and shrubbery well trimmed.

  • Make space between plants and avoid dense planting. 

  • Keep gardens free of weeds and trash.

Look for - and fix - gaps or holes outside your home so rodents can’t get inside.

  • In the roof among the rafters, gables, and eaves.

  • Around windows.

  • Around doors.

  • Around the foundation

  • Attic vents and crawl space vents.

  • Under doors.

  • Around holes for electrical, plumbing, cable, and gas lines.

Materials can be found at your local hardware store to fix gaps and holes:

  • Use caulk to seal small holes and cracks.

  • Fill slightly larger holes with steel wool. Put caulk around the steel wool to keep it in place. 

  • Use lath screen or lath metal, cement, hardware cloth, or metal sheeting to fix larger holes.

  • Close gaps under doors with rodent-resistant metal door sweeps.

  • Close window gaps with metal flashing. 

  • Use flashing around the base of the house, and fix any gaps in trailer skirting.

  • Use 1/2 inch mesh hardware cloth as a barrier under decks, porches, and crawl space openings.

  • Put screens on vents, especially on lower floors.

  • Seal pipes leading into walls with escutcheon plates (“pipe collars”). Check pipes regularly for leaks.

  • Outbuildings and garages should also be sealed to prevent the entrance of rodents.

An inactive burrow will often have leaves, cobwebs or other debris around the entrance. These burrows should be closed so rats can’t get back in. 

  • Close burrows in soil by filling with soil and tamping down with a shovel, or by stepping on them. 

  • Close burrows in cracked or broken sidewalks with metal filler and cement.


some of the information on this page was found on ratbehavior.org , we suggest you give them a gander for great information on all things rodent related.

MICE VS RATS

No matter what species of rodent you have living on your property, call us to take care of it. We have seen it all and know just how to handle it. 469-609-RATS

What is the difference between a rat's diet and a mouse's diet?

Rats consume far more food than mice to feed their larger bodies. They tend to favor protein-rich foods such as meat, cheese, fish, and pet food. On the other hand, mice prefer a healthier diet of fruit, vegetables, nuts, and grains.

That said, rats and mice are very adaptable—they’ll eat whatever they can get their paws on. In fact, mice will even eat their tail if they don’t have access to any other food.

plants or Foods that attract Mice and Rats

Here’s a fact to share with your friends: rats have a stomach size of up to 267 grams. In fact, a rat’s stomach is about half the size of your thumb! Mice’s stomachs are far smaller, and they have a less voracious appetite compared to rats (although your damaged home may not agree). 

As you can imagine, mice and rats vary drastically in their weight. A mouse’s weight ranges from 0.5 to 1 ounce, whereas rats weigh up to 16 ounces and above. 

Mice and rats have big appetites. Mice can eat up to 3 grams every day, and rats can eat up to a third of their body weight.

You likely don’t need us to tell you that house mice and rats have a wide-ranging diet. However, you might be wondering: what kinds of foods attract mice and rats? Below are some of the most common mice and rat-friendly foods.

Fruit and Berries

Mice and rats have an expensive taste of their favorite food source—they love fruits, especially raspberries and blackberries. Apples and pears are also a go-to meal for them. They love the sweet smell of rotting fruit just as much as the fresh stuff, so take care when throwing away fruit scraps.

Nuts

A high source of protein, rats and mice love to lap up this energy-dense food. They aren’t picky about the type of nut; anything from peanuts to hazelnuts will satisfy them.

Plants

It may not be their first choice, but mice and rats eat grass, twigs, and bark. Rats tend to go for larger plants, and mice stick with smaller ones.

Grains and Seeds

From oats to sunflower seeds, rats and mice love eating seeds from your bird feeders and bags of feed you may have sitting around a barn. Grains and seeds are among the most natural kinds of foods for them.

Meat

Rats are bigger meat eaters than mice. They don’t discriminate on cut or style—a rotten piece of liver makes them just as happy as fresh filet mignon. 

Garbage Scraps and Trash

It’s no secret that rats and mice love eating items out of the trash bin. It’s an opportunity for them to enjoy a wide range of nutrient-rich nibbles of bread, cheese, meat, and desserts.

Pet Food

Mice and rats are more than happy to share Fido’s food. They’ll even eat fish, food, and hay for livestock.

Food and Animal Byproducts 

Non-edible items like clothes made from animals, including leather, are all tasty treats for rats and mice if there isn’t anything better around to eat.

Salty and Sweet Foods

Like humans, rats and mice love their salt and sugar. They’ll eat everything from chocolate to gumdrops.

Are there different species of rats and mice?

Mice and rats are both rodents, and they have many similarities and differences. One of the main differences between mice and rats is their size. Mice are smaller than rats, while rats are medium sized to large rodents. This size difference can be seen in the proportion of their body parts as well. Mice tend to have smaller heads and feet compared to their body size, while rats have proportionately larger heads and feet. Another difference between mice and rats is their fur. Mice tend to have softer fur, while rats' fur is more coarse. This difference in fur texture can be attributed to the fact that mice are generally more agile and active, while rats are more cautious and tend to move slower. In terms of behavior, mice tend to be a bit bolder than rats. They are more curious and exploratory, while rats are more cautious and calculated in their movements. This difference in behavior can also be attributed to their size, as smaller animals tend to be more agile and quick to react. However, both mice and rats are capable of causing damage to property and household items. An individual rat can cause much more damage compared to a mouse, due to their larger size and strength. Rats, with their big heads and large teeth, have more of a heavier, blunt shape snout, which they can use to chew through various materials. Meanwhile, mice have bodies that are five to seven inches long and are generally more delicate in their movements. In conclusion, mice and rats are both rodents that can coexist in human environments. While they have many similarities, they also have significant differences in terms of size, fur texture, and behavior. Understanding these differences can help individuals distinguish between the two types and take the necessary precautions to prevent damage or infestations.


RAT VS MOUSE SUMMARY

Rats vs. Mice Products Needed for Rats vs. Mice Solutions Rat & Mouse Bait Station

In terms of behavior, mice and rats are active primarily at night, and they are known for gnawing on a variety of materials to keep their constantly growing incisors filed down. They are also known for being excellent climbers and can easily access attics and roofs through small openings. Rodent infestations should be dealt with promptly as they can cause damage to structures, spread diseases and contaminate food sources.

Frequently asked questions: about the house mouse, rats, mice and other rodent species diets and behaviors No matter if its a one mouse, or an entire rat or mice infestation, rodents are very adept at learning how to get in residential homes, and most customers report them ending up in thier attic or roof, which requires, you guessed it, rodent control.

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large portions of this article were written citing ratbehavior.org , a phenomenal website i read to my kids about our pet rats, be sure to check it out

In an attempt to remind customers that Rapid Rodent Removal are also roofers, we have also made a table of contents with all of our information about rats , mouse , squirrels and Roofing , Roof Repair , Roof Replacement (articles & blog) stemming from to all about Rat poop , Mouse poop , Squirrel poop or Raccoon poop in Your Home & or Rats in Attic, to Roofing Contractors to Rodent Control.

How to get rid of Mice

Eliminating Mice: A Comprehensive Guide on How to Get Rid of Mice in Your Home

This article is intended to provide mouse education, about how to trap a mouse in your house or property and and information about mouse trapping, so that you can make an informed decision if you need to know how to keep mice away from the attic with trapping.

Eliminating mice from your home can be a difficult task, but there are ways to get rid of them. One way to remove mice is by using traps to kill them. Another option is to make use of mouse repellents to keep them away. Getting rid of mice can also involve sealing off entry points to the home to prevent them from entering in the first place. If you have a mouse infestation, it's important to take action as soon as possible to get rid of them. It's also important to clean up any food sources to eliminate the mice's attraction to your home. The best way to get rid of mice is a combination of different methods, such as using traps and repellents, sealing off entry points, and cleaning up food sources. It's important to make sure to take care of the problem completely by removing all mice and preventing future infestations.

How to get rid Mice in the Attic and Walls

Do you suspect you have an infestation of mice in your attic?

Rodent Control began as trader routes began to develop routes and from that Mouse Trapping made its first appearance from Chinese civilizations and the trade centers of the early world. When agriculturalists began to migrate and spread across Southwestern Europe, they unknowingly brought mice with them. The two histories are so intertwined that scientists can use molecular phylogenetic studies of mice to establish the migration patterns that early humans followed.

When Europeans settled the mice were stowed away on their ships, and as international trade came to dominate the world’s economy mice achieved, with our help, what many would have thought impossible, they infested the world.

Why do you need to know all of this ? Because Mice are Extremely hard to get rid of , and have always been! But since your still reading here is a similar about a similar rodent, rats in the attic or on How to get rid of Rats in the Attic.

Inspection

What are the Warning signs that you have a mice problem in your attic or walls ?

The first place to look for Mice in the attic is within the blown in insulation, mice love it. Besides, it provides warmth during the cold winter months, and a cool pocket in the summer months on top of the drywall.

It’s also worth a look to inspect other areas of your house as well. Having mice in the attic could mean they’re in different locations. Areas like :

  • Kitchen

  • Pantry

  • Crawl Space

  • Water heater

Identification

Once you’ve confirmed that you have an infestation, it’s vital to know what rodent species you’re dealing with. For example, we have developed a saying “if its small like rice, its mice, if its kinda fat, its a rat”

Also, their nesting habits are not quite the same. By correctly identifying the rodent problem, you know what materials you need to conquer it.

What does rat poop look like ?
What does squirrel poop look like ?
What does raccoon poop look like ?
What does opossum poop look like ?

Poisons are effective, sure, but what happens when a poisoned mouse keels over behind the attic wall, under the attic floorboard, or worse yet, gets eaten by a household pet?

 

Trapping

Trapping is the best way to kill mice, either by glue board or snap trap

Snap Traps

The best mouse traps to use are snap traps. They’re pretty easy to set, and they kill the mouse instantly and humanely, click here to read about the Best Bait to use on a Mouse trap

Placing the trap can be a pain , make sure you don’t trap yourself:

  1. Bait the trap with peanut butter, meat or a different nut butter.

  2. Set the trap to to where the mouse will not be able to steal the bait.

  3. Carefully place the trap perpendicular to the wall. Be cautious when sliding it. The slightest vibrations can set the trap off. hide it behind something if possible

  4. Rinse and repeat as needed

Once you catch a mouse, it’s not worth it to save the trap. Instead, throw the whole thing away. Snap traps are relatively low-cost items, and it becomes too messy to separate dead mice from them.

Glue Board Traps

Glue traps are by far the easiest to use. You just fold them into a box and set them in place.

You can also lay a glue trap flat, which often works better. To make it even more effective, place a small dab of peanut butter in the middle to attract a mouse faster.

How to get Rid of Mice in the Walls

Preventing mice in the Attic: How to Seal Entryways and Perform Regular Inspections to Keep Mice Out of Your Household

There are a lot of different methods when it comes to pest control, but there are some options that we do not recommend, mostly because we have made these mistakes before

  • You don’t want a pest control company to toss poison around your attic and hope that it kills something, IF it does work, good luck finding it, while smelling and decaying indefinitely.

  • Setting up snap traps or glue traps is often undesirable and may not even be feasible depending on where the rodents have taken up residence. It’s also not a fun job to clean these traps (and can even be risky due to the amount of contact required to empty and clean). However this is the most important step.

Common entry points for mice get inside walls are:

  • Siding

  • Cracks in foundations

  • Crawl spaces

  • Large Weep Holes

  • Gaps in building materials

  • Poorly sealed door and window frames

we When have determined that your house is completely mouse proofed and all rodents have been successfully removed, we recommend cleaning and sanitizing the attic space, during the time rodents were inside your attic space they were contaminating the insulation with rodent feces and bacteria laden mice urine.

Once you get your pest problem under control, make sure to take additional steps to mouse-proof your home from future infestations.

Animal Exclusion

The Difference Between Rats and Mice

How To Know if You Have a Infestation

How to get Rid of Dead Animal Smell

Mice or rodents in the attic?
How much does it cost to get rid of mice in the attic?
Are you dreading the sound of mice and rats scurrying around in your attic this winter?
Have you noticed evidence of a mouse infestation on your property?
Why do rats and mice infest my attic?

mice can cause major problems in households, and attics are particularly vulnerable to infestations.

One of the first signs of a rodent problem in the attic is the presence of blackish faecal droppings, which can be found near potential nest sites.

Gaps in exterior walls and trim trees & shrubs near your home are common entry points for rodents, so it's important to perform regular inspections of your attic and household to identify and seal these entryways. Once you've identified the presence of rodents in the attic, it's essential to take action to trap them and prevent further infestations.

One effective solution is to remove insulation and store food in airtight containers to make the attic less attractive to mice and rats. Additionally, trimming trees and shrubs near your home can also help to reduce the risk of rodents moving into your walls.

If you suspect a rodent problem in your attic, it's important to act quickly to prevent further damage and protect your household.

How to tell if you have mice or rats how can you be sure you have mice and not rats ?

Rat vs Mouse How to tell the difference :

There are several ways to tell if you have mice or rats in your home. One way is to look for signs of gnawing, as mice have small, sharp teeth and leave small, precise gnaw marks, whereas rats have large, strong teeth and leave larger, more ragged gnaw marks. Another way to tell is by the size of droppings, as mice droppings are small and pointed, while rat droppings are larger and more oblong. Additionally, mice tend to have a musty, urine-like odor, while rats have a stronger, musky odor.

Another way to tell is by the size of the animal, as mice are typically smaller than rats. Mice are usually around 2-3 inches in length, while rats are around 6-8 inches in length. Mice also have a more slender body shape than rats, which have a more bulky and rotund shape.

Furthermore, you can observe the time of activity, mice are active during night time and rats are active during both night and day.

It's also important to note that if you have seen one mouse or rat, it's likely that there are more. Mice and rats tend to live in colonies and reproduce quickly, so an infestation can grow quickly if left unaddressed

In an attempt to remind customers that Rapid Rodent Removal are also roofers, we have also made a table of contents with all of our information about rats , mouse , squirrels and Roofing , Roof Repair , Roof Replacement (articles & blog) stemming from to all about Rat poop , Mouse poop , Squirrel poop or Raccoon poop in Your Home & or Rats in Attic, to Roofing Contractors to Rodent Control.

How To Get Rid of Dead Animal Smell Or Odor

How To Get Rid of Dead Animal Smell and Eliminate Odor



Doesnt matter if its a rat , mouse, rodent or larger animal the smell of a decomposing animal is very bad

Animals, particularly small rodents are great at smelling and finding entry points into cool or warm houses, crawl spaces, dead animal in attic, and vehicles. This is why we warn against using poison. Poison works, it kills small animal, and they often die in inconvenient places, i.e  your walls, or other hard or impossible to reach places in your home or office. Sometimes they die in your neighbor's yard, or your yard and get eaten by a pet, which from time to time causes a pet to die from ingesting a poison filled rodent. We often remove bloated raccoons and opossums from attics that have been feasting on poisoned rats, which can be rare as a homeowner, but something to consider, and ultimately why we suggested professional rodent removal.

You will never eliminate the dead animal smell without removing the dead animal, so if the animal dies 14ft up in your wall next to an ac vent your probably going to smell that animal, (or animals if you use poison) after the animal is removed the smell should start to dissipate and after you sanitize the area even more so. Unless you remove the source of the problem – the dead animal and any bodily fluids — the bad smell can last for weeks or months

Use the dead animal smell to find & eliminate the odor

First instinct is to shut the door or close off the area to the nightmare that is the smell you smell. Most people shut the door to the room, put a towel under the door and try to keep it confined to that one area. This will work, if you want only that room to smell like a bucket of death. You can go ahead and use your glade plug ins, scented candles, and other such things in you want the room to smell like a seasonal gift basket of death. Let me be really clear about this, there is NO PRODUCT THAT CAN COVER THE SMELL OF A DEAD ANIMAL, but we will tell you how if you keep reading.

 

Get Rid Of the Carcass Get Rid Of The Smell !  



What you do with the body will depend on the local bylaws in your municipality, but your options include burying, burning, and throwing the body in the trash. Don’t touch the animal directly: either wear gloves or use a shovel to move the carcass around.

  • To dispose of the body in the garbage back, remove the insulation or debris that surrounds the carcass, then double bag it before placing it in the trash. Remember to seal your outdoor trashcans because other scavenging animals will get in them to retrieve the dead body for food.

  • You may also be able to call an Dead Animal Removal Service to pick up the body if that sort of thing freaks you out.

  • Clean the area. With gloves on, use a rag or paper towels to pick up any leftover fur, juices, or anything else left behind by the animal. Spray the area with an enzymatic cleaner, which will break down the organic materials and help eliminate odors.

But what if I cant find the dead animal ?

If you can't locate the animal, buckle up. If the animal died in a very hard to reach place—such as inside a wall—or you may decide to not destroy the finish of your dry wall- whatever the reason is that makes you  unable to remove the carcass to get rid of the odor, keep in mind the time it takes for decomposition and the smell to dissipate will depend on the size of the animal, the temperature, and the humidity.  Be aware that leaving an animal to decompose could take several weeks or even months.

  • Use a strong odor eliminator or disinfectant in the area. You can do this by spraying a product like Bac-Azap, hanging Odor Neutralizing Bags, or using a Neutralizing gel. You can buy these at Home Depot or Order them from Amazon below.

  • Replace the bags as necessary and continue using the other neutralizers until the decomposition has finished.

(Odor Neutralizing Bags, & Neutralizing gel shown in picture below)

(if you buy these i make 5 cents lol, and thank you)

 

How to clean up after a dead animal

  1. Ventilate the area. Whether you’ve removed the source of the smell or you're waiting it out, ventilation is key to freshening the air and helping eliminate bad odors.

    • Open as many windows as possible

    • Get the air moving

    • Set up a few fans to blow air from inside the house to outside.

    • Let It Breathe

 

How to eliminate dead animal germs

Step 2: Clean the Area

Gather a few materials:

  • Disposable gloves

  • Bleach or disinfectant

  • Mask or respirator

  • Long clothing and protective footwear

Indoors: Wearing gloves, you can use a household disinfectant or bleach. If the animal happened to expire in your insulation and left a mess behind, you have an extra chore. You need to remove and replace the affected insulation. 

Outdoors: If the animal died outdoors, thoroughly flush the affected area with fresh water. Wash away any remaining fluids from the dead animal that seeped into the grass and soil. The bad smell should soon start to dissipate. If it persists, flush the location again with water. 

Be sure to increase ventilation inside the home to flush the dead animal smell from the house. You can do this by opening windows, turning on fans, or turning down the air conditioner.

Step 3: Treat the Smell

Odor-Eliminating Products: You can find odor-eliminating and odor-neutralizing products online or at your local home improvement store. These biological cleaners generally work by trapping the odor particles in granules. They don’t mask or cover up the dead-animal smell — they trap and eliminate it. 

These are the same type of products wildlife removal specialists use. Products available state they trap the dead animal smell, thus eliminating and neutralizing it. Some of these types of odor neutralizers and a few example brands include:

  • Granules

  • Ready-to-use spray and concentrates

  • Odor Remover pouches

The diseases dead animals carry

Many wild rats carry a number of diseases and parasites, but which diseases, and what percentage of the rat population is infected, vary with the population under study. Some parasites may have interesting effects on rat behavior which benefit the parasite.

Wild rats carry mycoplasma, though the percentage of the population that is infected may vary from place to place.

Wild rats do not carry the plague. When rats catch the plague, they die from it. Other wild rodents who are resistant to the plague carry it in their bloodstream, and the plague is transmitted from animal to animal by fleas. Plague epidemics were caused by the plague jumping (by flea) from these wild rodents to rats, and from rats (before or as they died) to humans. Today, the plague is treatable with antibiotics and cases are rare.

Wild rats almost never carry rabies, and there has never been a case of human rabies caused by rat bite in the United States, though such cases have been found very rarely in other countries.

Do wild rats carry diseases and parasites?

Yes, some of them do. Which diseases and parasites they carry, and what percentage of the rats are infected, depends on the population of rats under study.

Parasite and disease load of wild rats on farms in England

On English farms:

Webster and MacDonald (1995) studied the parasite and disease load of wild rats on farms in England:

red text = transmissible to humans

Helminths (worms):

the oxyuroid pinworm Syphacia muris in 67% of the rats

the strongoloyd parasite Nippostronglyus brasiliensis found in 23%

the liver worm Capillaria in 23%

the cestode Hymenolepsis diminuta in 22%

Toxocara cati causing Toxocariasis in 15%

the oxyuroid pinworm Heterakis spp. in 14%

the cestode Hymenolepsis nana in 11%

the intestinal tapeworm Taenia taeniaeformis in 11%

Bacteria

Leptospira spp. bacteria causing Weil's disease in 14%

Listeria spp. bacteria causing listeriosis in 11%

Yersinia enterocolitica bacteria causing yersiniosis in 11%

Pasturella spp. bacteria causing Pasturellosis in 6%

Pseudomonas spp. bacteria causing Meilioidosis in 4%

Protozoa

Cryptosporidium parvum causing cryptosporidiosis in 63% of the rats

Toxoplasma gondii causing toxoplasmosis in 35%

Trypanosoma lewisii in 29%

Eimeria separata in 8%

Rickettsia

Coxiella burnetti evidence of infection by Q fever in 34%

Viruses

Hantavirus causing Hantaan-fever or hemorrhagic fever in 5%

Ectoparasites (note: these ectoparasites are vectors for diseases which are transmissible to humans, such as typhus)

Fleas found on 100% of the rats

Mites found on 67%

Lice found on 38%

In rural Croatia

Stojcevic et al. (2004) examined 255 wild Norway rats captured in rural Croatia for parasites. Overall, they found that 72.6% of the rats were infected with some form of parasite. Nearly a third of the rats (32.2%) were infected with external parasites, and nearly two thirds (65.1%) with internal parasites.

External parasites were found on 32.2% of the rats:

sucking lice Poliplax spinulosa on (14.5%)

chewing lice Trimenopon jenningsi (3.4%)

chewing lice Gyropus ovalis (1.57%)

flea Leptopsilla segnis (1.18%)

flea Ceratophylus fasciatus (12.1%)

mite Myobia musculi (5.49%)

mite Myocoptes musculinus (1.18%)

mite Dermanyssus sanguineus (0.78%)

Internal parasites were found in 65.1% ofd the rats:

Nematodes:

Capillaria spp. (18%)

Capillaria hepatica (0.39%): liver worm

Syphacia muris (3.53%)

Nippostrongylus brasiliensis (16.9%)

Heterakis spumosa (25.9%)

Strongyloides ratti (1.18%)

Ascaris suum eggs (8.24%)

Toxocara spp. eggs (1.96%)

Tapeworms:

Hymenolepsis diminuta (36.9%)

Taenia taeniaeformis (10.6%)

 

Examples of single disease studies on wild rats

Many studies examine a single disease in rats in a particular location. For example:

Parasites

In Norway rats examined in Chunchon, Korea, Seong et al. (1995) found the following helminths:

Capillaria hepatica in 25.6% of rats

Hymenolepis diminuta in 32.6%

Taenia taeniaeformis metacestode in 65.1%

Brachylaima mascomai was found and studied in wild rats living in the Llobregat delta in Spain (Gracena and Gonzalez-Moreno 2002).

Trichinosis (transmitted when humans eat undercooked meat from hogs that consumed food contaminated with feces from infected rats):

The spiralis causing trichinosis in humans and swine, Trichinella britovi, was found to be prevalent in Norway rats in Croatia (Marinculic et al. 2001)

42.4% of wild rats were found to be infected with trichenellosis on a pig farm (Leiby et al. 1990)

19% of rats from waste disposal sites in Finland carried Trichenella spp. (Mikkonen et al. 2005)

21.4% of wild rats from a hog farm in the Slovak Repuclib carried Trichenella spp. (Hurnikova et al. 2005)

Wild Norway rats were found to be a reservoir host of Cryptosporidium parvum, with an overall parasite occurence of 24%. The percentage of rats infected with the parasite varied according to age, sex and season (Quy et al. 1999).

Bacteria

Leptospira spp.

16% of wild Norway rats in and around Saint Petersburg, Russia carried Leptospirosis (Tokarevich et al. 2002)

45% of wild Norway rats on the Ripa Grande-San Michele port in Rome, Italy carried Leptospirosis (Pezella et al. 2004)

16.9% of brain tissue samples and 27.1% of kidney samples from 59 wild Norway rats collected along the Black Sea in Turkey tested positive for Leptospirosis (Sunbul et al. 2001).

Salmonella

low percentages have been reported in populations of Norway rats in the United States (Davis 1948, Davis 1951b, Nakashima et al. 1978)

8% of fecal samples from wild Norway rats from the West Midlands, UK, tested positive for salmonella (Hilton et al.2002).

Protozoa

Six Sarcocystis spp. were identified in the muscles of 33% of wild rodents (Rattus species and Bandicota indica) in central Thailand. One of the parasite species, Sarcocystis cymruensis, was prevalent in R. norvegicus (Jakel et al. 1997)

Viruses

Hepatitis E:

Kabrane-Lazizie et al. (1999) studied Hepatitis E in wild rats in the United States. They trapped 239 rats from three widely separated regions of the U.S., and the infection rates were very high: 77% of rats from Maryland, 90% of rats from Hawaii, and 44% of rats from Louisiana had been infected with Hepatitis E

31% of wild Norway rats (114 out of 362) in Japan tested positive for hepatitis E antibodies (Herano et al. 2003)

Hantavirus:

Norway rats found infected with hantavirus (Seoul virus) in Baltimore, Maryland (Hinson et al. 2004)

First reported case of a wild rat carrying Seoul hantavirus on a wild Norway rat in Europe (France) (Heyman et al. 2004)

31% of 29 Norway rats captured in Buenos Aires had antibodies to Seoul hantavirus (Seijo et al. 2003)

20.9% (39 out of 187) of Norway rats captured in Cambodia had antibodies to Seoul hantavirus (Reynes et al. 2003)

1.53% (7 individuals) of Norway rats captured in a fresh food market tested positive to Hantaan virus in Bangkok, Thailand (Kantakamalakul et al. 2003).

These are just a few examples of such studies. Finding all the parasites and diseases carried by Norway rats from different populations around the world would be an enormous task and is far beyond the scope of this website.

 

Diseases and injuries of wild rats in a semi-natural enclosure

Calhoun (1963) conducted a two-year study in which he kept wild rats in a 1/4 acre enclosure that was almost entirely predator-proof. He provisioned the rats with regular food and water. He started with ten wild rats and allowed the individuals to breed and die naturally. The population gradually grew to nearly 200 rats over two years. Calhoun trapped 284 rats repeatedly and examined them for parasites, diseases, and injuries.

Injuries

Young rats of less than 40 days of age were nursing or near their mother and were never bitten. After the rats were weaned they started receiving a very few bites from other rats. Constant, low levels of aggression and biting continued until the rats reached social maturity at around 6 months for males and 8.1 months for females. At this age the rats received about 1.75 bites per female and 1.81 bites per male. After this age wounding increased over several months to stabilize at about 7 bites per female at age 368 days (12.3 months) and 9.5 bites per male at 266 days (8.9 months). The level of aggression in this population is probably higher than that of free-living wild rats, because this population was confined and social strife was common.

The wounds were usually small and were inflicted on the rump. If the wounds didn't become infected they typically healed within 2 weeks. However, some wounds became infected, and developed into extensive shallow festering wounds that took weeks or months to heal.

External Parasites

Flies and maggots: Rats (usually juveniles) occasionally had masses of fly eggs deposited in their fur during the warmer months. The most significant effect of flies on the rats' health occured when the flies laid their eggs in infected wounds. An infestation of a wound by maggots sometimes caused death by myiasis. Death by myiasis was one of the prime mortality factors in this population.

Bot flies: Eight percent were found to have a warbles (bot fly) infestation. Warbles are the larvae (maggots) of the Cuterebra genus. The larvae enter through a natural opening like the nose or mouth, then live under the skin, forming a boil. Several weeks later they slice and chew their way through the skin. This process caused open lesions which frequently became infected.

Fleas: The rats had very few fleas: only one flea was observed.

Ticks: 2% of the rats had ticks, four of which were the dog tick, Dermacentor.

Lice or nits: 9.1% of the rats had common to abundant lice.

Diseases

Respiratory disease: 7.4% of the rats were found with sneezing, coughing, wheezing and difficulty breathing. Though there is no direct evidence, Calhoun believes that colds were an important debilitating factor contributing to mortality of weak individuals.

Head tilt: 1.4% of the rats (4 individuals) had a head tilt, presumably from a middle ear infection by Streptobacilus. Despite this condition, the rats walked about and one of them became a dominant individual in his burrow.

Microorganisms and internal parasites

The experiment was terminated after two years. At this time, 77 females and 54 males were autopsied.

Microorganisms

None of the rats had Salmonella, Leptospira, or Histoplasma.

Streptobacillus moniliformis: found in 45.5% (15 of 33) of the necropsied rats. This organism can be transmitted to humans, where it causes rat-bite fever.

Bartonella muris (causes anemia): Two rats were examined for this bacterium and both were positive.

Helminth parasites (worms)

Trichosomoides crassicauda (6.5%): bladder thread worm.

Cappillaria hepatica (53.3%): liver worm

Strongyloides ratti (16.4%)

Heterakis spumosa (60.9%)

Syphacia obvelata (2.2%): pinworm

Tricuris muris (2.2%)

Hymenolepsis spp. (42.6%)L cestode

Cysticercus fasciolaris (3.3%), cyst stage of Taenia taeniaeformis: intestinal tapeworm.

Parasites and behavior

Parasite infection can affect the behavior of wild rats. Webster et al. 1994 and Webster 1994 found that rats who carried Toxoplasma gondii were more active and more likely to approach novel stimuli than uninfected rats. Infected rats were also more likely to be trapped than uninfected rats. The differences in behavior may come from pathological changes caused by Toxoplasma: cysts in the brains of infected rats.

These behavioral changes in the rats may be advantageous to the parasite because these changes render the rat more likely to be eaten by a domestic cat -- the preferred host of Toxoplasma. Toxoplasma only influences behaviors that benefit itself, such as exploratory behavior, rather than causing a general alteration of the rat's behavior (Berdoy et al 1995).

For a review of the impact of Toxoplasma gondii on rat, mouse and human behavior, see Webster 2001. For more on the fascinating subject of parasites and behavior, see Moore 2002.

Do wild rats have mycoplasma?

This is an interesting question to rat owners, because the vast majority of the pet rat population is infected with Mycoplasma pulmonis, which may cause progressively serious respiratory problems in the host. Mycoplasma is incurable, though the symptoms may be treated with antibiotics.

Do wild rats suffer from mycoplasma too?

There is evidence that wild rats do, indeed, carry mycoplasma. Owen (1976) trapped 80 wild Norway rats from three populations and examined them for parasites and diseases. Two of the populations had 95% and 100% M. pulmonis infection rates, while the third population had a 0% infection rate. The author speculated that the uninfected population could represent an isolated pocket of Mycoplasma-free rats. Overall, 75% of the rats were infected with M. pulmonis and 1.25% were infected with M. arthriditis.

Giebel et al (1990) trapped six wild Norway rats and found a species of Mycoplasma, M. moatsii, in the intestinal cells and feces of all six rats.

Koshimizu et al (1993) trapped 35 wild rats from 7 different species. They did not find Mycoplasma in the few R. norvegicus they captured, but they did find it in R. rattus. However, the number of R. norvegicus captured was very small, so we cannot conclude from this study that there is no Mycoplasma in that rat population.

Therefore, wild rats carry Mycoplasma, but the percentage of rats affected may vary from one population to the next.

Do wild rats carry the plague?

The plague bacterium is maintained at low, steady levels (called enzootic infection) in just a few species of rodent hosts, such as Microtus spp. (voles), and Peromyscus spp. (deer mice, white-footed mice, Texas mice, cotton mice etc.). Some populations of these species are resistant to the plague and therefore form a reservoir from which outbreaks can occur in other species. Other non-rodent species have been found serologically positive to the plague as well (e.g. bears, bobcats, badgers, fox, ringtails, skunks, mountain lion, deer, African elephant, African buffalo).

The plague bacterium, Yersinia pestis, is transmitted from one animal to another by the flea. An outbreak occurs when infected fleas change host species and unload large numbers of plague bacteria onto a new, less resistant host species. In the United States, these new hosts serve as amplifying (epizootic) hosts, and they include rock squirrels, California ground squirrels, antelope ground squirrels, prairie dogs, chipmunks, woodrats, and less resistant populations of Microtus and Peromyscus. In urban areas, these hosts include the ship rat (Rattus rattus) and the Norway rat. Different species of flea may become involved in an outbreak, including the rat flea (Xenopsylla cheopis), the squirrel flea (Oropsylla montana), and the human flea (Pulex irritans). The plague is therefore carried by many different rodent species. However the rat, because it lives in close proximity to humans, has been most frequently associated with plague outbreaks in people.

Rats are not resistant to the plague, so an outbreak of the plague in rats is associated with large rat die-offs. Infected rats usually die within a few days of a high-grade bacteremia. The infected fleas do not die, however, and the rat's death forces the infected fleas to find other hosts: other rats, or humans.

Humans are therefore at risk of contracting the plague if they live near or handle plague-infected rats or their recently dead bodies. Simond (1898), one of the early observers of plague transmission, observed that handling a rat which has been dead for more than 24 hours did not lead to infection, because the infected fleas had already left the body.

The most famous outbreak of the plague was the Black Death of 1330-1352. This epidemic was spread by the ship rat and its flea, which spread the plague to humans throughout Asia and Europe. The last plague outbreak in the United States was in 1924-1925 in Los Angeles. Since then, human plague has been found as scattered cases in rural areas in the western United States (10-15 cases per year) (Levy 1999). Currently, plague-infected rodents are found in many parts of the world (CDC), but transmission to humans is relatively rare (1,000-3,000 cases per year worldwide). Today, the plague is 100% treatable with antibiotics.

Was the Black Death really caused by Y. pestis?

Over the past twenty years there have been several challenges to the theory that the Black Death was caused by Y. pestis (Twigg 1985, Scott and Duncan 2001, Cohn 2003). These authors suggest that the Black Death might have been caused by a disease other than plague, such as anthrax (Twigg 1985), an Ebola-like illness (Scott and Duncan 2001), or an unknown disease which has gone extinct (Cohn 2003). They argue that the surviving descriptions we have of the medieval Black Death differ on a number of points from a recent, well-documented Y. pestis plague epidemic in the 19th and 20th century in Southeast Asia and India called the Third Pandemic.

However, a team of French paleomicrobiologists recently discovered the DNA of the plague bacillus Y. pestis in the tooth pulp of plague victims from the Black Death (Raoult et al.2000). Gilbert et al. (2004) were unable to find Y. pestis DNA in the teeth of Black Death victims, but the technique they used to examine the tooth pulp was a different and less sensitive technique than that used by the original team (Drancourt and Raoult 2004), and therefore not an exact replicate study.

Most recently, Haensch et al. (2010) isolated DNA and protein signatures specific for in human skeletons from mass graves associated with the Black Death in northern, central and southern Europe. They confirmed that Y. pestis caused the Black Death and later epidemics on the entire European continent over the course of four centuries.

Further reading on the plague:

Songer, Glen. Lecture Notes on Pathogenic Bacteriology

Chamberlain, Neil. Lecture Notes on the Plague

CDC on the plague

Levy, Craig.1999. Plague in the United States, 1995-1997. Infect. Med 16(1):54-64.

Kelly, J. 2005. The great mortality: an intimate history of the Black Death, the most devastating plague of all time. New York: HarperCollins Publishers.

Do wild rats carry rabies?

Are wild rats ever found to carry rabies?

Very few rats infected with rabies have ever been found in the United States. Winkler (1973) reviewed the literature on rodent rabies in the United States. He found that during the 18-year period of 1953 and 1970, a small number of rabid rats (39 rats) were found in the United States. The numbers were extremely small: only 11 rabid rats were found in the U.S. during the three year period of 1953-1955. The number of rabid rats declined during the period of time covered by the review, and by the three year period of 1968-1970 only 2 rats were found to be rabid. This decline in the number of rabid rats is probably due to an improvement in diagnostic techniques which led to fewer false positives. In Thailand, 4.7% of Norway rats (9 rats out of 192) were found to be carrying rabies (Smith et al. 1968).

However, no rats were found to be infected with rabies in surveys of wild rat populations in Sri Lanka (Patabendige and Wimalaratne 2003), Poland (Wincewicz 2002), and Bangkok, Thailand (Kantakamalakul 2003).

Have rats ever caused rabies in humans?

Rats and other small rodents have never caused a single case of human rabies in the United States (CDC).

A very few cases of humans infected with rabies by rats have been reported in countries such as Poland, Israel, Thailand and Surinam. In Poland, out of 9,998 cases of human rabies from 1990 to 1994, four were caused by rats (0.04%), while the vast majority were caused by foxes (Zmudziñski and Smreczak 1995, described in Wincewicz 2002). In Israel, one case of human rabies was caused by a bite from a small rodent -- possibly a rat or mouse (Gdalevich et al. 2000). In Thailand, out of 7,000 human rabies cases reported each year, 1% are caused by rat bites (Kamoltham et al. 2002). The majority of rabies cases in Thailand are caused by dogs (86.3%) (Pancharoen et al. 2001). An outbreak of paralytic rabies in children in Surinam was attributed to rat bites (Verlinde et al 1975).

Why is rabies so rare in rats?

The answer is unclear. Currently, it is presumed that rats are so small that they almost never survive the attack of a larger rabid animal, like a raccoon, skunk, or fox.

How fast does rabies progress in rats?

The speed of rabies progression depends on the rat's age, body weight, rabies strain, and rabies dose. The higher the dose, the faster the progression (Baer et al. 1965). The incubation period for wild type rabies (called "street rabies virus") is two to three weeks following injection to the foot in the laboratory (14-18 days: Kitselman and Mital 1967; median 16 days, range 10-25 days: Baer et al. 1968) and mortality is high (100%: Kitselman and Mital 1967; 63.6%: Baer et al. 1968).

Note, however, that a bite from a rabid predator would differ substantially from a needle injection to the foot: a predator's bite might create several wounds, all of which could be inoculated with the rabies virus. A natural bite may also be inflicted on the body of the rat instead of an extremity, and hence closer to the central nervous system. Hypothetically, such bites might be followed by a more rapid progression of the rabies virus and hence a shorter incubation time.

How does the rat's incubation period compare to that of other species?

Comparing rats with other species, raccoons (the most common wild animal carrier of rabies, Krebs et al. 1999, 2002) have an incubation period of about five weeks (estimated by Tinline et al. 2002). Vampire bats survived an average of 12 days after experimental infection (Setien et al. 1998). Ferrets incubate rabies for 22-33 days (Niezgoda et al. 1997a, b. 1998). Dogs incubate rabies from one week to several months (Fekadu 1993, Fekadu and Shaddock 1984).

Humans have a rabies incubation period of 1-3 months, but symptoms have been observed as quickly as a few days after inoculation, and as long as several years later (Rupprecht 2002, Lakhanapal and Sharma 1985).

Don't rats have a dry bite?

Pet rat owners commonly believe that if rats survive an attack by a rabid animal and then survive the disease long enough to bite a human, transmission is impossible because rats have a dry bite. The rat's bite is thought to be "dry" because of the forward position of the teeth in the mouth: this position is thought to prevent the teeth from getting wet. Rabies is transmitted by saliva from a bite, hence, rats could not transmit rabies (or any other saliva-borne disease) even if they did carry it.

This is not, in fact, the case. Rats can and do transmit saliva-borne diseases via bites, such as rat bite fever (Graves and Janda 2001, Grude 2001, Schuurman et al. 1998, Hagelskjaer et al. 1998, Hockman et al. 2000, Weber 1982), septic arthritis (Downing et al. 2001) and ratpox (Marennnikova et al 1988). And, as described above, rats have transmitted rabies to humans in a few rare cases.

Large rodent species and rabbits, which also have forward-placed teeth, have also occasionally transmitted rabies to humans.

Do all individuals with rabies shed the virus in their saliva?

No. As an example, 63% of ferrets infected with raccoon rabies had rabies in their salivary glands, and slightly less than half, 47%, shed the virus in their saliva (Niezgoda et al 1998). Other strains of rabies were shed at even lower rates in the saliva: 13% of ferrets infected with bat rabies had it in their salivary glands, and 4% shed it in their saliva. With skunk rabies, the numbers are even lower: 4% had it in their salivary glands, and none shed it in their saliva (Niezgoda et al. 1997b).

Therefore, even if an animal has the rabies virus, it may not shed the virus in its saliva.

Animal rabies vectors

In the United States, the animals that test positive for rabies most frequently are raccoons, skunks, bats, and foxes, cats, and dogs (in decreasing order of importance) (Krebs et al. 2002). About 2% of cases of animal rabies involve other wild animal species, including large rodents, rabbits and hares (Krebs et al. 1999).

In the 368 human cases of rabies caused by large rodent bites (95%) and rabbit (5%) bites between 1985 and 1994 in the United States, 86% were caused by woodchucks (Childs et al. 1997). In Maryland between 1981 and 1986, 1.2% of rabies cases in humans and domestic animals were caused by woodchucks or rabbits (80% of these cases were from woodchucks) (Moro et al. 1991.

The woodchuck (or groundhog, Marmota monax) occasionally carries rabies, primarily in areas where raccoons are experiencing an outbreak of rabies at the same time. Rabies infections in large rodents and rabbits therefore reflect a spillover from another 'reservoir' species, like raccoons, but such spillovers are unknown in small rodents (like rats) in the United States.

Conclusion

So, the upshot is that wild rats have never caused rabies in humans in the United States and only extremely rarely in other countries. Rats are therefore not considered a serious rabies risk. Rabies shots are not considered necessary after a rat bite (Jaffe 1983). Since 1969, the Public Health Service has advised that "bites of rabbits, squirrels, chipmunks, rats, and mice seldom, if ever, call for rabies prophylaxis" (CDC 1969).




Other Dead Animal Removal Articles

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  2. https://www.techletter.com/Archive/Technical%20Articles/smellofdeath.html

  3. http://www.hungryowl.org/services/rodent_control.html

  4. http://www.humanesociety.org/animals/rats/tips/solving_problems_rats.html